"Stupid Americans"... That was the reaction we got when people found out we were starting on this part of the Camino as our first day. Known as one of the most difficult days because of the trail terrain, we were expecting an extremely rough day. Most of us were out the door by 7:15, which allowed us to get most of our hike in before the heat started settling in. We had 20km (about 12.4 miles) ahead of us, and a gorgeous, cloudless sky. The whole group basically split into 3 smaller groups: Lenny, Jon, Lydia, and Hannah led the pack with a quick pace (they're invincible), Alissa and I carried the middle with a comfortable pace, and George, Sam, and Abel brought up the rear (they took full advantage of rest stops and enjoyed each minute of the views)!
We were so grateful that we didn't have to climb long stretches of solid rock, but it rather came in short stretches. In some places, we were literally climbing from rock to rock, and then in the easier areas, it was flat stretches of sand and dirt. With all the hype about how difficult the trail was, I was expecting it to be much worse. I was very grateful for that because it made the day seem like it flew by! We got to the albergue around 1:30, ate lunch, showered, and settled in for the evening. I think I am also the first on the team to get a blister! ...and so it begins!! :)
A little info on albergues... Albergue, hostel, and refugio are all synonymous. Only pilgrims are allowed to stay in these places (you must show your passport as well as your pilgrim credentials). At each of these places, pilgrims pay for a bed. We stay in rooms with many other people. So far, we have stayed at the municipal albergues. These are essentially the most cost efficient (only 5€ per person) and still include showers and a sometimes a kitchen to use. There are also sometimes options for a semi-private albergue in towns which cost between 8€-12€ per person. The municipals are all different sizes depending on the town. Tonight there are about 42 of us in one big room with all bunks (shout out to the 2 big snorers on the bottom bunks). It's a great experience because you truly get to have a communal living space. Everyone respects each other's things, and it is great fun spending the evening together with the other pilgrims.
Back to the hiking portion though...
Before reaching the mountain, Alissa and I stopped at a cafe to get something to eat. Before leaving, she had to hit the restroom because we were told there was no place to stop until the other side of the mountain. So she went in and apparently the door handle gets stuck easily and she got stuck in the bathroom. Hearing her struggle, another lady outside the bathroom helped her open the door. She came back outside to our table and was telling me this whole story and laughing. So then I had to use the bathroom before leaving and I asked her to stand outside the door in case I got stuck as well. Sure enough, I got stuck. However despite her pushing and my pulling, we could not get the door open. A large German man, with 3 empty beer bottles on the able before 10am, came over and got the door open for me. Of course by this time the whole store, though small, was looking at me finally exiting the bathroom. Alissa and I were cracking up as we packed up our stuff and went on our way. Later on, after we had hiked the mountain, we were at another cafe stop talking to a woman from Australia. (She came with 3 friends, this is her FOURTEENTH Camino, and her first time on the Portuguese route.) We spoke about many things from American politics to crime rate, to world travel. (It is always quite interesting to hear foreigners' opinions of America in general, but today more specifically our politics. haha) As we were leaving she looks right at me and says, "Oh, are you the girl that got stuck in the toilet?" Alissa and I are again laughing, and I said, "Yes, I am the girl who was stuck in the toilet." Perfect. I'm so glad that's the mark I'll leave on this Camino. Hahaha
Tonight Lydia, Hannah, and Alissa made dinner under Abel's supervision. It was great! We don't have wifi here, which sometimes truly seems like a blessing. It's so interesting to see how some people flock to wifi when it's available (yes, I am one of them...), but how nice it is to not even have the option. We spent 9 hours at the albergue and it was a fantastic time talking, listening, and observing.
Tomorrow we will do about the same mileage as today, with less difficult terrain. The local cafe opens at 7 for breakfast (which in Portuguese time basically means like 7:30 maybe). After that, we will stop at the market to buy our lunches to carry with us. From there, we begin the hike once again! We will also cross the bridge and enter into Spain, staying at an albergue in Tui.
Please pray:
For sleep for our team (many of us are not getting any rest because of snoring)
Relationships beginning to form with fellow pilgrims
Leading of the Holy Spirit in each moment of the day, no matter what that looks like in each situation
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